I don’t remember all the prices, and I’m only listing accommodation I recommend).
Assam
We started and ended our trip through the Seven Sisters in Guwahati. On arrival, we stayed near the airport. Before flying out, we stayed closer to the center at a place I especially recommend: Kobitaloi homestay
Parth- 7005302100
700 for a lovely room with a separate bathroom, plus 100 if you want breakfast. A genuine homestay run by a dedicated young man who helps with anything you need. You’ll also meet his lovely wife and dog. I spent quite a bit of time exploring with him and learned this is nothing unusual—he loves taking guests around the neighborhood.
The day after landing, we took a bus to Jorhat and a shared Sumo to the jetty (where the ferry leaves) to reach Majuli Island.
We stayed at a beautiful place near the river called
Ayang Okum River Bank Bamboo Cottage
09435546455
(1200 rupees after bargaining). Very friendly people and plenty of space. We got around entirely by bicycle, and although we usually prefer scooters, we found this the most enjoyable way to explore the island.
From Majuli, we returned to Jorhat-
We stayed at an oyo hotel very close to the train station. I don’t remember the name, but it was quite basic.
Nagaland
We took the train from Jorhat to Dimapur. We wanted to buy tickets in advance, but it turned out we couldn’t—you just need to arrive at the station a little early and buy them there. As soon as we got off the train, a police officer approached us and took us to register (the local police registration desk is right on the platform). Outside the station, we teamed up with a local couple and took a shared car to Kohima. It was a pretty rough ride; if possible, choose a Sumo (jeep) rather than a regular car. We spent Christmas in Kohima, and it was wonderful. We stayed at central backpacker hostel for 800 for a very basic room with a shared shower. It had a fun backpacker atmosphere and beautiful views.
From there, we continued to Zakhama village (near Kohima), where we spent a night at a homestay and rented sleeping bags for our trek to Dzukou Valley. The homestay is called Hill foot, run by a quiet young man who helped us so much. I recommend asking him for help preparing for the trek (1000 rupees per night for a double room with a private bathroom. Dinner 100 per person, sleeping bags 200 each. To our surprise, the gear was clean and high-quality).
Aye: +918257031781
We finally set off for Dzukou from Kohima. We teamed up with other travelers to share a taxi to the trailhead. There are two routes; I recommend the one closer to Viswema village, as it is easier and, in my opinion, prettier. At the top, there is one very basic place serving as a sort of trekkers' lodge. Despite the poor facilities and bitter cold, I wouldn't skip spending a night there. There are dorms and private rooms, very basic food, and extra charges for everything (1500 per night for a very, very basic room with a bathroom; firewood—100 rupees for 10 pieces, which lasted well. Dorm guests also pay extra for blankets, but a bed costs only 100 rupees).
Manipur
Manipur is a hidden gem. We took a local bus from Kohima to Imphal—a long ride on an extremely rough road. The bus leaves early and tickets sell out quickly, so buy yours a day ahead. Imphal is a gritty city. We visited twice and stayed in two different places: Hotel northeast—in a pretty lousy area, though close to the famous Ima Keithel market. The owner is really lovely and stored our things for almost a month while we were in Myanmar. 800 rupees for a double room with a combined toilet and shower. You fill your own bucket of hot water, so we had as much as we wanted :) The second place was Hotel Nightingale—we paid 1000 for exactly the same setup, but in a younger, cooler neighborhood. Good coffee and vegetarian food were easy to find, along with some great secondhand shops. It had a bit of a student vibe. From Imphal, we took a shared van to Moreh, on the Myanmar border. If you have a few weeks and an extra 50 dollars for a visa, I highly recommend treating yourself to a visit to beautiful, fascinating Myanmar. Back in Imphal, we continued to Loktak Lake—an easy local bus ride of just over an hour. After endless wandering, our luck turned and we found loktak aquamarine. It was our most expensive stay of the trip, but wow, so worth it. Think gorgeous bamboo huts on a floating island in the middle of the lake. Our hosts were a warm, lovely couple who took such good care of us without speaking a word of English. They brought us tea and a charcoal brazier so we could enjoy the veranda despite the cold nights. The food was delicious and lovingly prepared. (1000 per person including breakfast and dinner, plus 200 rupees for the return boat ride to the island. Everything was arranged remotely through Ashok +91 80149 21286). Don't miss this if your budget allows—a truly unusual experience.
Tamenglong district and Barak Falls—for adventurous travelers only :)
We took a Sumo from Imphal to Tamenglong town—a tough ride of about 5 hours, costing 400 rupees. Tamenglong is the name of both the district and the town, a lovely, beautiful place on a high ridge. We stayed at apollo Inn for 700 rupees for a double room with a combined toilet and shower and a sweet little balcony. There is a nice market and plenty of great secondhand shops. People here aren't used to seeing travelers like us, and we received lots of invitations to chat and visit people's homes. Everyone speaks excellent English, which makes for interesting conversations.
The next morning, we walked to Bomgbaijng village and got thoroughly lost. I still highly recommend going (a vehicle heads down from Tamenglong once a day, and you can also walk without getting lost). It is a Rongmei Naga village with no electricity or utilities. Despite its limited resources, it is a little slice of paradise beside a beautiful river. All the food is grown by the villagers—completely organic, with amazing vegetables. It is a clean place that feels like a piece of history that may soon disappear. One family hosted us generously in their home, and we gave them whatever amount felt right in return.
In the morning, we took a motorboat to the falls (1000 rupees—the boatman stayed and waited for us for a few hours until we were ready to leave). The falls and the journey there are beautiful, and we jumped in for a swim in the river. You can also do this as an organized camping trip with a tour company. We met their team, and they sounded very professional.
Tour company (also very helpful with free information—good people to meet along the way):
Mordechai: 917641812371+
Asang: 918731800834+
Our hosts in Bomgbaijng (you must let them know you're coming):
Alon Pamei: 918259998342+
Daniel: 917838615825+
We returned to Tamenglong by car on a very rough ride. After another night recovering at apollo inn, we headed to Shillong.
Meghalaya
In Shillong, we stayed somewhere lousy that I wouldn't recommend. After several visits, I'd suggest skipping Shillong if possible. If not, try staying near Police Bazaar or Bara Bazaar.
We caught a Sumo to Cherrapunji for 80 rupees, then hitchhiked to Tyrna, where the steps down to Nongriat begin. In Nongriat, we paid 700 rupees for a beautiful hut with jungle views and plenty of privacy (Arne's wooden hut, +918014780255, the first place you come across when entering the village).
From here, we traveled separately for a while, so here are my recommendations as a solo female traveler—
Cherrapunji—it's cold, but a great base for day trips to the dozens of waterfalls nearby. I got around by shared taxis and hitching rides in vans with Indian tourists. I recommend bynnud homestay.
09856600596
A tiny but cute room opening onto a large balcony with amazing valley views (300 rupees). The real highlight is the host: she cooks incredible food (I had vegetarian dinners there twice for 100 rupees) and has all the information you need, plus endless patience to help plan what to do and how to get there. A lovely woman and a wonderful family.
Dawki—the town itself isn't especially interesting, but several villages along the river offer fully equipped campsites and homestay rooms. I went to Shnongpdeng with a few other travelers and stayed in a comfortable, warm enough tent for 500 rupees a night, at a place with clean toilets called
Fabian Adventure Camp
07005897846
The campsite is relatively secluded for such a touristy area, and it's worth crossing the bridge over the river to get there. I stayed five nights—perfect weather, cheap accommodation and a campfire every evening made it easy to linger.