Latest updates from Hampi, as of September 2019
The Israeli side is now closed
Here's the situation
I'm sharing what we experienced and learned over the past week in Hampi. Since we're the first Israelis here this season, it's our duty to report back;) We also asked a few locals from different areas, and here's the summary: a dam was opened, letting in lots of water from elsewhere and flooding the river and surrounding area. The Israeli side became an actual island with no access. A well-connected Indian tourist was staying at one of the resorts there when the water rose. She panicked and called the police, even though things were actually fine and the owners offered everyone stranded there a free stay. But she made a scene... So they came to evacuate everyone by helicopter (on the north side they told us 600 people, and on the south side they said 200). The police closed the area and forced the locals and business owners to leave too. So there are no boats going there, and the whole area is shut down. Nothing is operating. We were told there would be a court hearing in two days, and that they would most likely decide to close the Israeli side permanently (something about it not really being legal anyway, and there being a nature reserve there, etc.). Just a reminder: this is information we gathered from various locals, so who knows which details are actually correct.So what's happening now that the Israeli side is closed?
Accommodation on the north side is limited, and the few places available are crowded. With demand high and supply low, they can really hike up the prices. These places aren't used to so many guests either, which also has an impact. Since it's still off-season, nowhere had everything listed on its menu—far from it. They're still missing lots of ingredients.We explored the area extensively, and here's our take on places to stay and eat:
Jungle tree
Set in a gorgeous area you'll want to explore anyway. They rent scooters, have a restaurant, and offer several room types for 500-1000 rupees (prices go up on weekends). We got a bad vibe from the owner: he looks for ways to scam you and squeeze out more money with a fake smile, and treats his staff badly. The rooms are really disgusting. Some don't even have a sink, and there are bedbugs. We had to stay there the first night because we were stuck, then left immediately. The kitchen is filthy and the food isn't great. It's also a place where drunk Indian visitors like to party and go wild. Overall, an unpleasant experience.Tutti
A really, really beautiful place in a stunning setting. Run by a tough Italian woman and Nepali staff. The food is incredibly spicy! Everything costs more here, both food and accommodation. There are impressive tents with proper beds and shared outdoor showers, plus thatched huts with private bathrooms. More European in style, for those who like their comforts. Prices are around 1200.Gowri
When we were looking for somewhere to stay, it was packed. The only available room was bare and smelled strongly of mildew, so I can't say what the other rooms are like. We didn't go back. Online reviews say the food is good. I think prices are around 500-1000 rupees.Wayfsarers
This is our top recommendation, and where we eventually settled. Mowgli, the owner, is lovely, and Saheer is the sweetest host in the world. They even have a media guy, Sameer, who's a sweet, nerdy kid. In short, an amazing team who made us feel at home. It's the only place in the area licensed to sell alcohol. When we were there, with everything so remote and it being off-season, as I mentioned, only a few dishes were available, and they came out a little differently each time. But they promised to work on that and upgrade the kitchen. They helped us with everything we needed (a friend of ours was bitten by a dog in the street, and Mowgli immediately contacted the nearest hospital, took us there, helped with everything and really looked after her). In short, we highly recommend it. They have double rooms, a dorm and tents. Prices are 400-1000, depending on what you choose and when.We explored the stunning north side of the river in all directions. There's a lake, temples and, of course, the Monkey Temple. You'll need scooters; every guesthouse rents them out. A scooter costs 250, or 400 with a liter of petrol. Take it without petrol—they don't really put it in, and a liter costs around 70 at a petrol station. We explored here for 4-5 days, then moved to the south side to explore there. Everyone we met stayed in one place, north or south, and explored everything from there. So do whichever you prefer. Keep in mind that nothing on the north side is within walking distance. Wherever you stay, that's all you have nearby, and you'll need a scooter, rickshaw or bus to get anywhere else (there are great, dirt-cheap buses to most places you'll want to visit). On the south side, by contrast, we're in a tiny village where every building is a guesthouse, restaurant, bar, shop or all of the above, haha. So there's a huge choice within walking distance. Here you explore archaeological ruins, while the north side is more jungle. There's a lovely market on the south side too. Of course, without Israelis around, it's harder to get weed—so if that matters to you, bear it in mind and prepare for a little detox;) It's very hard to find, and expensive if you do. On the south side, smoking outside is generally forbidden... Lately, Hampi is the only place in all of southern India with good weather—even perfect, and sometimes too hot.
I think I've covered everything! Happy to answer questions. Hampi is gorgeous and well worth a visit. I've attached photos from the north side. Shame I didn't photograph the flooding for you... You'll have to imagine it ;)