Spiti and Kinnaur: Altitude Sickness

First, this post is not a substitute for medical advice. Consult a travel medicine doctor before taking any medication. This post is intended only to raise awareness of the dangers of altitude sickness.

To everyone planning to visit *Spiti and Kinnaur, this post is for you* (and everyone else is welcome to read too:)) At the start of the week, 10 of us set off in two jeeps through Raj's agency, opposite Chabad House in Manali. Sadly, only 8 returned in those jeeps; the other two were airlifted to a hospital in Delhi. In our case, it all began at one in the morning with a woman unconscious and breathing intermittently, with no phone reception and no practical way to call for help. We were at a guesthouse in Losar, where the staff were incredibly kind and stepped in to help (photos attached). We also received help from Magnus (Chilik), Chabad House in Dharamshala, and the insurance agency passport. I strongly recommend saving phone numbers in advance for anyone who could help you in an emergency, because you won't be able to find them later.

I want to share what we learned from this experience to help prevent more life-threatening incidents. I hope this message reaches as many travelers in India as possible, including next season.

Spiti Valley lies at an altitude of 3600-4600 meters. This means the oxygen level in the air is very low, affecting all the body's systems and potentially causing altitude sickness. Symptoms include headaches, nausea and vomiting, chest pain and difficulty breathing, loss of consciousness, and death. All of these worsen at night during sleep. There is also no mobile reception or Wi-Fi anywhere in the area.

So how can you prevent what happened to us?

1. You must take altitude sickness pills, especially if this is your first time at high altitude. Side effects include mild tingling in your hands and feet and frequent urination. Take the pills and don't take risks—you don't want to be in that situation. 2. If symptoms appear, descend as quickly and as far as possible—in Spiti, there aren't many options, so take the pills and don't try to be a hero. You can also take headache medication such as Optalgin. 3. Drink plenty of water—really plenty. 4. Don't set off without an oxygen cylinder, tubing, and a mask!! After speaking with Raj's agency following the incident, we learned that the jeeps are supposed to carry oxygen. Any agency that sends you out without it is irresponsible! If there is no cylinder, you can buy one on the way at a pharmacy in New Manali for 400 rupees. An oxygen cylinder is a quick temporary measure when you can't descend, but it is not a substitute for descending.

In summary

We were very lucky: I'm a medical student, and there was also a registered nurse, another medical student, and a group of kind, extremely responsible people with us. Don't rely on luck—rely on yourselves. Don't try to be heroes, and most importantly, enjoy Spiti. It's one of the most incredible places you'll ever see!