Itinerary: Delhi to North India and back to Central India
Delhi, Leh, Manali, Kasol, Parvati Valley (Pulga), Dharamshala, Pushkar.
I came to India on a spontaneous, short trip—and fell in love! So how much can you fit into a month? Here are some details and recommendations from my own experience
Visa
צריך להוציא דרך האינטרנט קישור כאן.
SIM card
SIM cards in India mainly work in the area where you buy them. They don’t work at all in Leh, so I wouldn’t recommend buying one there. I bought an airtel SIM in Manali: a gigabyte a day for 28 days, for 550 rupees. Some companies ask you to fill out a long form, and it takes three days for mobile internet to start working. I got mine from a wonderful woman in New Manali who did everything on the spot, and the internet worked throughout. Highly recommended.
Food
Everything is very, very spicy—even if you ask for “not spicy at all.” I highly recommend vegetable momos, chicken masala, chicken tikka masala and thali. For dessert, nothing beats a Milkybar chapati or a sweet treat from the Matok Maluach chain.
General tips
There are no dorms in India: you either get a room to yourself or find someone to share with. Remember, you're in India: food takes ages, journeys are long, Wi-Fi doesn't work, showers are cold, and there are occasional power cuts. I won't go into stomach upsets, as it's very individual, but pretty much everyone gets one. I recommend bringing Kal Beten.
Transport
In cities, you get around by rickshaw—just like a tuk-tuk, open-sided and without air conditioning. Very cheap. In India's far north, you mostly travel by jeep: comfortable, with connections for playing music and even charging your phone.
For longer distances, take a semi-sleeper bus, sleeper bus or train.
Semi-sleeper
A bus with seats that recline all the way back, leaving you in a semi-seated position. You can reserve specific seats through travel agencies in advance (by the window, near the front, etc.).
Sleeper
A bus with actual beds, like enclosed compartments or cages, with doors you can close. Travel agencies let you choose upper or lower berths, with or without air conditioning, etc. Semi-sleeper and sleeper buses charge 10 rupees per bag to store luggage in the hold.
Train
Trains have actual beds, and you can choose an air-conditioned carriage.
Delhi
I spent one night here on arrival and another before my flight home.
I flew into Delhi from Bangkok with SpiceJet. The airport is very clean and organized (unlike Delhi itself). After landing, you sort out your visa and head outside. I didn't withdraw money at the airport—the fees are very high. Buying a SIM there isn't worth it either; it's too expensive. It's worth having around 1000 rupees for a taxi (I exchanged money in Bangkok). There's no Wi-Fi at the airport at all. Outside, I took a taxi to Main Bazaar. Watch out for scams!!! Main Bazaar is not closed, even if a meteor has hit it. Pay no more than 500 rupees for a taxi. The first drivers I asked wanted 1200 rupees. Look for the black-and-yellow taxi stand, where a ride to Main Bazaar costs 400 rupees. These taxis are a bit like rickshaws, with no air conditioning. The ride itself is wild and unsafe. They drive like maniacs. In India, they drive on the opposite side from Israel (not that it matters, as they nearly kill each other either way).
Main Bazaar
First stop: Chabad House. This is where you'll find all the Israelis. They'll help with questions, and there's great food and medicine if you need any.
Luggage storage
Right next to Chabad House, there's a luggage storage place charging 5 rupees for a small bag and 10 for a large one, per bag per day. I withdrew cash (20 thousand) from an ATM farther along Main Bazaar.
Shopping
Main Bazaar itself is packed with shops. You can buy loads here and easily bargain prices down. Delhi also has a huge mall, a 40-minute rickshaw ride away: three floors, modern and Western-style, with prices similar to Israel. You'll find outdoor stores like Decathlon, plus Zara and more. The mall is called Pacific.
There's also Avi Travel, where you can book onward travel to wherever you like.
Accommodation
1. Apple Villa, to the left of Chabad House at the end of one of the alleys. A good place with hot water and Wi-Fi. 1500 for a room for three. I had a flight to Leh that night; a taxi to the airport cost 350 rupees, arranged through Chabad House. 2. Opposite Chabad House is a place called anoop: 900 rupees for a room for two, with a hot shower, Wi-Fi and air conditioning.
Leh
Four days, three nights
Getting there: I booked a flight through Momondo for 230 NIS. The flight took an hour, on a small, fairly empty plane.
Altitude
Flying into Leh takes you straight up to 3500 meters. Take two days to rest and do nothing, take altitude medication if needed, and wait before starting any treks. I felt really unwell on the first day, with bad headaches and dizziness. Give your body time to adjust. We made it to Leh! Be warned—it’s very cold! Time to get your softshell jackets and hiking boots back out! We took a taxi to the center for 350 rupees; it’s a five-minute drive from the airport.
Accommodation
Imak Chuka Hostel is really good! There’s Wi-Fi, hot water and an amazing view! A double room without an en-suite bathroom costs 500 rupees. Note that toilet paper isn’t provided. More expensive rooms are also available. You can store your bags here while trekking.
Food
Ooh La La—excellent food, Wi-Fi and great breakfasts. Babylon—good atmosphere and excellent food. Little Tibet Food Planet—proper schnitzel! Perfect!
Shopping
You’ll find plenty of things along Leh’s streets, though prices are a little high for India (save your serious shopping for Manali and Pushkar). The Main Bazaar has everything: a library, an internet café, a pharmacy and an outdoor shop (great hiking trousers for 50 shekels, and even gas canisters). Shanti Stupa—if you fancy a walk, cross the bridge and climb a fair number of steps to reach the stupa and its stunning views.
Trips and Activities
There’s so much to do in Leh! I highly recommend booking through Namgyal—the agent popular with Israeli travelers for arranging all their trips:
Nubra Valley
Three days, two nights.
A beautiful valley 8 hours from Leh! You need a permit to visit, which costs 570 rupees through Namgyal. We booked a jeep for 5 people for 12,000 rupees to stay with us for three days.
The first day involves about 10 hours of driving, including stops, with a beautiful pass at 5600 meters along the way! We also stopped at a giant Buddha statue and in Diskit for food. Be aware that the drive can be a bit rough, with winding roads along cliffs. We reached Turtuk, where we stayed at Apricot Villa—an excellent guesthouse.
Please note! There’s no Wi-Fi at all in Turtuk. Electricity is only available from 19:00-23:00, and the water is cold. You can request a bucket of hot water only between 19:30-21:30.
Apricot is an excellent guesthouse—800 rupees for a double room with an en-suite bathroom. There’s a kitchen and a vegetable garden, so you can prepare meals and cook. We made a big meal with help from the chef at Maha, the restaurant next door. He was lovely and even came over to cook with us! On the second day, we walked to a beautiful lake and visited a monastery. We wanted to reach a waterfall, but the route was very steep and difficult to climb, so we gave up. There’s a school along the way that’s worth visiting.
Food—next to Apricot is an excellent organic restaurant called Maha. Friends Café is also worth trying. A must-do: head up to Apricot’s rooftop at night to stargaze! Amazing! On the third day, we returned to Leh.
Pangong Lake
One night, two days.
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A stunning lake stretching from India into China, five hours from Leh. We booked a jeep for five people through apollo adventure for two days, for 8500 total (round trip). Note that you need a permit here too, but if you already have one for Nubra Valley, that’s enough. The drive takes around five hours, and there’s a 10-rupee entry fee along the way. The road is very winding and runs along cliffs.
When you reach the lake, you can choose where to stay—a homestay or a tent.
I recommend heading to the village of Man. It’s a little farther away (about 30 minutes on a challenging road), but worth every second. The village is away from the crowds, with beautiful views.
We stayed in Man in a double tent for 1000 rupees per person. You can add an extra mattress for 800 rupees. The tent is right on the lakeshore.
It’s worth waking up for sunrise!
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There are plenty more activities and treks in Leh that I didn’t do:
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Tso Moriri—a lake on the way to Manali,
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Baby Trek—can take one to three days,
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Markha Valley—4 to five days,
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Stok Kangri—a tough trek reaching an altitude of 6,200 meters.
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Manali
Three nights, four days—a shopping destination! Manali is divided into Old Manali and New Manali. Old Manali is the main shopping area, with one long uphill street.
Getting There
We booked a jeep for 6 through Namgyal in Leh for 14,000 rupees: a two-day journey with an overnight stop. On the first day, we drove for 13 hours along a steep route crossing 3 mountain passes. We stopped in Keylong and stayed at Somrila Guesthouse—a great place with hot water and Wi-Fi, at 500 rupees for a double room. On the second day, we drove another four hours to Manali.
Accommodation
In Old Manali, I stayed at Veer Guesthouse, right next to Chabad House. It cost 1000 rupees for three people sharing a room (a double bed and one mattress). Laundry is available at Shimrit's, charged per item.
SIM Card
I got my SIM card in New Manali: 28 days with a fresh gigabyte each day, for 550 rupees with Airtel. Shopping—in Manali you can find Lulu, harem pants, custom tailoring, repairs, jewelry, and more. I highly recommend Manu's shop—he sews and repairs anything! For jewelry, try Robin—he sells real gold.
Food
Dylan's Café—the best cookies you'll ever eat!! There's an amazing games shop opposite. Other places to eat: Olive's Garden, 1947, the Nepali place—amazing sandwiches—and Hot Pot, which is really tasty.
Vashisht
A lovely village next to Manali. A rickshaw costs 150 rupees for three people. You can take a day trip to the waterfalls or even stay overnight.
Kasol
A gateway to the villages of the Parvati Valley, with great shopping. I didn't stay overnight, but you certainly can.
Getting There
A taxi from Manali to Kasol cost 1500 for three people and took about three hours. We arrived at Free Kasol, where all the action is.
Food
Yan is really tasty. You can leave your bags at Rana's agency for 10 rupees a day. We booked a jeep to Pulga through him for 800 rupees—an hour's drive with lots of bends.
Parvati Valley
A magical place among the mountains, dotted with villages. With limited time, I only visited Pulga, but other villages and destinations are worth exploring too—Kalga, Kheerganga, Tosh, and more... Getting there involves a drive from Kasol followed by an uphill walk. Leave your large bags in Kasol rather than hauling them along.
Pulga
Three nights, four days in a village in the Parvati Valley. The jeep drops you off halfway, followed by a steep uphill walk of about an hour. I recommend closed-toe shoes and as few bags as possible. The trail is very muddy.
Accommodation
new forest view, a huge, very new white building with hot water, no Wi-Fi and an incredible restaurant! 500 rupees for a double room on the first floor. The food is amazing! The Milky Bar chapati and pasta are highly recommended. Pulga is beautiful—be sure to visit the Fairy Forest! Rana's agency has an office in Pulga where you can book transport.
Dharamshala
We stayed for three nights, four days.
A lovely place full of courses and workshops—yoga, meditation, painting, jewelry making, etc. Dharamshala is divided into three villages: Dharamkot, Bhagsu and McLeod Ganj. Getting there: I booked a semi-sleeper from Kasol while in Pulga: 10 hours, 800 rupees. Once in Kasol, you need to take a taxi for 350 rupees to the sleeper bus departure point, then travel to Dharamshala. On arrival, take a taxi to Dharamkot for 350 rupees. You arrive very early (5 am), so almost everything will probably be closed. It's worth sitting near Chabad House until around 8, then looking for a guesthouse. Accommodation: I stayed at Anil Home, very close to Chabad House—500 rupees for a double room with a kitchen and hot water. I don't really recommend it because it's filthy and very dusty (and I'm allergic to dust).
Dharamkot
This is the best place to stay—it's a little less crowded. Bina House: worth a visit for its great workshops and amazing Friday night dinner. It's in Dharamkot. Raj's agency: you can book everything through him! He's really friendly and always helpful. Workshops: I took a painting workshop with Anwar, opposite Chabad House in Dharamkot. He provides materials and a picture to work from, and charges 300 rupees per hour. I think that's a bit steep, but it was the only place I found. The painting turned out beautifully! He helps, but it doesn't really justify the price. Food: Shamayim—amazing food, with pad Thai at least as good as Zozobra's. HaYisraelit—highly recommended, with two screening rooms and a huge selection of films with Hebrew subtitles. Morgan's Place—a proper Italian restaurant! Matok Maluach—open all night, with heavenly sandwiches. Don't miss it!
Bhagsu
All the workshops and shopping you could want! HaSfaradiya—a shop with amazing things from Europe! (A little pricey.) White Rabbit—an Israeli-run place that's just like Benedict! There's also a dirt-cheap jewelry shop—the fairest prices I've seen!
McLeod Ganj
A slightly smaller place, but you'll find plenty of shopping here too! You can buy LED fairy lights at an electrical shop to decorate your room.
Pushkar
The best destination in India (in my opinion, of course). A beautiful place with loads of shopping, guesthouses with pools and an amazing lake! Be aware that it's especially hot this time of year. Lots of shopping, and very hot! Pushkar is a religious city, which means no meat or alcohol.
Getting there
I booked a sleeper bus to Delhi and then a train to Pushkar through Raj in Dharamshala. (A huge mistake.) We took a taxi for 400 rupees from Dharamkot to the sleeper bus station in Dharamshala. The semi-sleeper to Delhi took 12 hours and cost 900 rupees. From there, we took a taxi to the train station, where we had to wait 5 hours for our train. Definitely not recommended!!! Delhi was smelly, sweltering and full of foul odors, and waiting at the station in the middle of the night (we arrived at 4 am) was awful. I strongly recommend flying or taking a direct sleeper bus. We eventually boarded the train (also booked in advance through Raj) for 900 rupees, an 8-hour journey. The train has sleeping berths, and breakfast is available for an extra charge. We arrived in Ajmer, then took a half-hour taxi ride to Pushkar. Be aware that this is a very, very long journey—it took me more than 24 hours. There are other options, such as a direct train or a flight. Your choice!
Accommodation
אני ישנתי באולד פיקוק, 400 רופי לחדר יחיד עם מים חמים וויפי יש אחלה בריכה בגסטהאוס. גם הקוואלה זה מקום מגניב לישון בו.
Food
בלו סטאר- מנוהל על ידי ישראלית בשם אודליה ממש טעים! קוואלה- ארוחות בוקר למות! לה פיצרייה- מסעדה איטלקית אמיתית! טעימה מאוד מאוד. ליטל איטלי- מסעדה איטלקית נוספת באזור השוק. מתוק מלוח- מנאץ של החיים, פתוח 24 שעות. המתוק ממש ממש מומלץ הקינוח הכי טעים שאכלתי!
What to do?
1. Shopping, shopping, shopping. Pushkar is the ultimate shopping destination, with loads of choice and everything cheap! Nicky's jewelry, custom-made clothes, bags of every kind, sarongs, pashmina scarves, notebooks and Himalaya creams! Shopping lovers should explore every shop thoroughly and be prepared to ship a parcel home—you'll leave with quite a haul! 2. Pushkar's famous lake: I recommend going at sunset to enjoy the beauty. There's a drum circle and lots of ceremonies around the lake.
I highly recommend Shiva Travels, right next to Sami Burger. There's an internet café and a parcel service, and you can book transport anywhere! You can even find Bamba and Klik there!
Pushkar was my last stop. From there, I returned to Delhi and flew home with Aeroflot. Did you know? Aeroflot lets you check in 46 kilos and 2 backpacks (really!). But... they're known for backpacks not arriving in Israel on time. It happened to me too, but Ben Gurion Airport had mine delivered to my home within a day.
What's it like traveling solo as a woman?
Amazing. I had so much fun, and I recommend it to every woman. It’s really easy to get around India on your own: there are Israelis everywhere, and there’s always help and advice on how to get places. I don’t recommend traveling between destinations alone; always find Israelis to share the journeys with (which can sometimes be very long). Traveling solo lets you meet new people, open up and get to know yourself! That said, solo travel isn’t for everyone. You need a sensible head on your shoulders and a strong sense of responsibility. Traveling alone can also sometimes be more expensive.