Varanasi

Sharing a few tips for Varanasi after my third visit. A city that stays with you forever! - I stayed at Assi Ghat to be a little removed from the chaos of the old city and head in whenever I felt like it. - One of the best experiences was taking a boat from there at sunrise to Namo Ghat, the northernmost ghat, then walking back along the ghats and through the narrow lanes. You pass through lots of less touristy areas and meet locals performing small, authentic religious rituals. Be prepared for some distressing sights involving animals. - Another incredibly fun option, if you're up for it, is renting a motorbike. Riding there is very challenging but rewarding, especially if you head toward Ramnagar to see the fort or just explore the city's lanes. I think most rental places don't check driving licenses, so you can rent without a motorcycle license. If you go for it, ride with extra caution! - Varanasi is a street-food city, especially known for chaat: snacks served in small portions. It's famous for tamatar chaat, which is tomato-based. It's worth seeking out and asking people on the street where to find it. - Diwali in Varanasi, which is tomorrow, is a wild, almost scary experience: the whole city becomes a warzone of firecrackers and fireworks. Not for the faint-hearted. You can buy firecrackers on the street and join the kids, but be extremely careful. A little later comes Dev Deepawali, a festival specific to Varanasi that's also supposed to be amazing and full of lights. - Lots of people will approach you on the street. Some will be genuine, while others will try to get you into their shops to buy things. I recommend not dismissing every interaction, because you can meet some lovely people, but avoid getting drawn into shops and feeling obliged to buy something just because someone helped you with a small thing. - Cremation ceremonies take place 24/7 at the larger Manikarnika Ghat and the smaller Harishchandra Ghat. The public nature of the ritual is very unusual, and I highly recommend finding a quiet spot to sit and watch the proceedings and rituals. Be aware that up close, you may see graphic sights, such as a worker lifting a leg with tongs to move it into the center of the fire so it burns properly. If you sit nearby, be prepared for sights like these. Honestly, it's hard to think of anything else. That's the thing about this city: just live it, breathe it and take it all in, with all its good and bad 😍